hiking Japan

Catching up to Bashō

A view of Matsushima Bay in the Tohoku region of Japan, October 2025.

As some of you may recall, last fall I had the great pleasure of traveling to Japan with my husband and son. The highlight was a six-day walking tour tracing part of the route of 17th century haiku poet Bashō.

I’m thrilled that a major haiku journal has published a haiku sequence inspired by the trip. When my husband Paul saw the piece, laid out over two pages, he joked, “You got the centerfold in Modern Haiku!” I’m happy to share it here, with thanks to editor Paul Miller. I’ve added notes below for context.

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Three travelers hike part of Bashō’s 1689 route.

In Bashō’s Footsteps

three wayfarers
we catch up to Bashō
by bullet train

Narrow Road
everyone driving
on the wrong side

dancing maples
we clap and clap
for bears

An elevated section of the trail.

all words drown
in its depths . . .
Matsushima Bay

a crow
cawing cawing
smoky hojicha

autumn leaves
Bashō’s dreams
endure in stone

View of the steps leading up to Natagiri Pass.

on his walk too
the rhythm of rain
on bamboo

a little more wear
from our boots
sunken stone steps

a banana tree
waves hello
Bashō museum

straw sandals
how long they last
in the display case

steaming onsen
the long trail
dissolving

NOTES ON VERSES:

Annette Makino along the route of Bashō’s Narrow Road to the Deep North, October 2025.

“three wayfarers” - My husband, son and I took a bullet train from Tokyo to Sendai, in the rural Tohoku region in the north, where Bashō and his friend and disciple Sora walked over a period of five months in 1689.

“Narrow Road” - Based on his travels, Bashō wrote a very influential travelogue sprinkled with haiku, called Oku-no-hosomichi, or Narrow Road to the Deep North. This verse also plays with the fact that in Japan, people drive on the left.

“dancing maples” - In the Tohoku region of Japan, aggressive bears killed 13 people last year. Signs warn hikers to make noise as they walk, so we often clapped our hands to warn bears away.

“all words drown” - With its hundreds of small pine-covered islands, Matsushima Bay is considered one of the most beautiful places in Japan. Bashō was so overcome that he couldn’t write a single haiku about it.

“a crow” - hojicha is a kind of roasted green tea.

“autumn leaves” - This verse riffs on one of Bashō’s most famous haiku, reflecting on the once-mighty Fujiwara dynasty: “the summer grasses— / all that remains / of a warrior’s dream” (trans. Robert Hass). This poem is engraved on a stone monument near the site where Bashō wrote it.

“on his walk too” - The fall weather was mostly lovely, but we had a bit of rain on our walking tour. Glad we had better raincoats than the straw cape Bashō wore!

“a little more wear” - Part of the walking tour involved climbing a steep mountain pass via some very worn and mossy stone steps.

Basho and Sora spent some nights at this station master’s house, now a museum.

“a banana tree” - Bashō adopted his pen name from the banana tree, or bashō, outside his hut. A cluster of banana trees grows near the entrance to the Bashō museum in Yamadera.

“straw sandals” - For their journey of 1500 miles, mostly on foot, Bashō and Sora wore sandals made of rice straw. These wore out out so quickly that they had to be replaced every day.

“steaming onsen” - Japan is famous for its many onsen, or hot springs. The traditional Japanese hotels on our walking tour all had onsite onsen—a great treat after hiking up to ten miles.

_________________________

Thanks for coming along! For more details and photos of the trip, booked via Walk Japan, see my blog post, Three wayfarers in Japan.

Makino Studios News

Summer sale: Take 15% off all cards in the Makino Studios shop until midnight this Monday, August 3 with code SUMMER2026. And check out the new bestseller bundles for birthdays, sympathy and everyday (6 cards for the price of five).

2027 calendar focus group: I’ve been working hard on the collages for my 2027 mini-calendar of art and haiku! I could use some feedback on which image to use for the cover and which pieces to leave out entirely. If you’re interested in getting a sneak peek online and voting on the options, please email me (see page footer). And if you were part of last year’s focus group, I’ll include you again. Thanks!

Yung Stands Strong: After months of research, writing, and editing, the children’s book I’ve written in collaboration with Humboldt Asians and Pacific Islanders in Solidarity (HAPI) is finally finished! With beautiful illustrations by Yukari Mishima and an in-depth historical section, this book about the 1885 expulsion of the Chinese population from Eureka, CA,  goes to the printer tomorrow. We expect to have books in hand by the beginning of October. The books run 50 pages (half story, half historical background) and will cost $20. If you expect to buy more than a couple of copies, please let me know ASAP, as we are still figuring out the right quantity to print!

Obon Festival: Local Humboldt folks, I hope to see you at Humboldt’s fifth annual traditional Japanese celebration of our ancestors 3-7 p.m. on Sunday, August 16 in the Arcata, CA, Creamery District. Bon folk dancing, taiko drumming, Asian food vendors, crafts, kids activities and an ancestor shrine await you. I’m honored that this year’s posters, t-shirts and sweatshirts feature one of my mixed media collages. More info from HAPI.

Seabeck Haiku Getaway: For those who will be at the Seabeck Haiku Getaway in Seabeck, WA in late October, I plan to attend and give a presentation, with haiku and photos, on walking part of Bashō’s route.

Three wayfarers in Japan

The trail to Jizogura shrine (shown left) outside Hijiori Onsen village in the Tohoku region of Japan.

Paul, Annette and Gabriel in Tohoku, Japan, October 2025

Konnichiwa! I’m back from a wonderful 18 days in Japan with my husband Paul and son Gabriel. On this, my fifth trip there, we toured Tokyo boulevards, mountain trails, rice paddies, rural villages and temples.

sacred shrine
worshippers raise
their selfie sticks

Paul has been studying Japanese intensively and was able to have brief exchanges and read some signs, which was very helpful. The Google Maps and Google Translate apps were also key companions.

We traveled by subway, bus, bullet train, boat and on foot, walking up to ten miles a day even when we weren’t hiking.

rice paddies blurring into the past bullet train

Annette sitting at the feet of the master, 17th century haiku poet Matsuo Basho, at Motsuji Temple, Hiraizumi.

The focus of the trip was a six-day self-guided walking tour in the northern region of Tohoku following the route that haiku poet Matsuo Basho took over five months in 1689. That resulted in his classic haiku-laced travelogue, Oku-no-hosomichi, or Narrow Road to the Deep North. Basho is considered Japan’s greatest poet, and it was moving to visit places that he wrote about almost 350 years ago and to see the many statues and monuments commemorating him.

Paul warns bears of our presence on the trail.

Some trails had clappers and at one trailhead, our driver set off firecrackers to warn away bears before we started our hike. Being used to California’s shy black bears, we weren’t terribly worried, but after our walking tour we learned that since April of this year, bears have killed 12 people in Japan and injured more than one hundred! Luckily, we didn’t encounter any bears nor any evil wild monkeys.

At one of our inns, a dish was grilled at the table on magnolia leaves.

Our tour company, Walk Japan, reserved traditional Japanese inns for us which each had on-site onsen, or hot springs—a real treat after hiking for miles over mountain passes or trudging up a thousand temple stairs. These inns served amazing breakfasts and dinners of 12 to 18 courses each, exquisitely presented on various types of pottery or lacquerware. Most of it was delicious, if sometimes mysterious. But I drew the line at tasting the raw horse meat on one sashimi platter!

Amida Buddha in Kamakura, completed in 1252.

We spent a total of six days in Tokyo, where we got to see my Japanese relatives. There we also caught the women’s qualifying rounds for the Tokyo Open, especially fun for Gabriel, a tennis player and coach. We took a day trip to see the Great Buddha of Kamakura, which has appeared in Paul’s dreams, reaching the massive, serene sculpture via a hike past five temples.

The iconic two-legged stone lantern at Kenroku-en in Kanazawa.

For four nights we based ourselves in Nagano, in the Japan Alps. We made a day trip to Kanazawa to see one of the most famous gardens in Japan, peaceful Kenroku-en, and to explore the evocative old samurai neighborhood. Wandering through rainy alleys that evening, we stumbled into a restaurant where we were ushered into a private tatami room. There, servers in kimonos brought us gorgeous platters of sashimi and sushi followed by dessert decorated with gold leaf—our favorite meal of the trip.

A special dinner in a private tatami room in Kanazawa.

sushi bar
through fish tank glass
they watch us feeding

We also traveled to the charming town of Obuse one day to visit the Hokusai Museum, which showed the intricate step-by-step process for printing his famous woodblock print, “The Great Wave of Kanagawa.” I was humbled to learn that Hokusai created more than 30,000 artworks in his lifetime!

We took a boat ride around Matsushima Bay, which Basho found so beautiful that he couldn't write a single haiku about it.

I could go on and on, but I’ll let my photos do the talking. This trip was covered by Makino Studios, so a deep bow of gratitude to all who have supported my art business. And thanks for your patience with orders while I was traveling; I’m all caught up on shipments and store deliveries, so feel free to order now (free shipping through Sunday). And thanks for coming along on this trip to Japan! As Basho wrote, “every day is a journey, and the journey itself is home.”

warmly, Annette

Makino Studios News

Free shipping this weekend: I’m offering free shipping on everything in the shop, no minimum order, through midnight this Sunday with code JAPAN2025.

2026 calendars: These mini-calendars of art and haiku are now for sale in most of my local stores and available here for $12. They make great gifts!

New cards and notecards: You can browse all new and ongoing designs here. Some of the newest designs are already almost sold out, but more are coming in a couple of weeks.

Made in Humboldt Fair: The holiday market at Pierson Garden Shop in Eureka, CA starts this Monday, Nov. 12 and runs through Dec. 24. It includes more than 250 local vendors. You can find my calendars, notecard sets, books and prints there.

Arcata Holiday Craft Market: Featuring food, music, and local vendors, this festive fair takes place Dec. 13-14 at the Arcata Community Center in Arcata, CA. Look for the Makino Studios booth on the lefthand side of the main room. This will be my only in-person event this season.

Torii gates lead to Sasuke Inari Shrine in Kamakura.

Haiku credits:

“rice paddies” - Last Train Home: tanka, haiku, rengay; Ed. Jacqueline Pearce; Pondhawk Press; Vancouver, BC, Canada; 2021

“sacred shrine” - 3rd place, Gerald Brady Memorial Awards for Senryu, September 2016

“sushi bar” - Prune Juice, Issue 17, November 2015